Everyday skincare products, especially facial products, are incorporating UV filters more and more. This trend can also be found in makeup with BB face creams and more recently with BB creams for the legs.
A few years ago, sun cream wasn't a pleasent product to apply (thick texture, oily, slow to absorb or leaving white traces). Things have changed considerably since then, with lotions, sprays and products which are becoming more and more cosmetically acceptable.
Regulation 2017/238 of 10 February 2017 modified Annex VI (UN filters) of the cosmetic regulation 1223/2009 to reduce the maximum authorised concentration of Benzophenone-3 in cosmetic products from 10% to 6% with a total ban on its use on children under 10 years old.
Oxybenzones (or benzophenone-3) are chemical filters which are raising concern, particularly in regions where there are large coral reefs.
Although legal restrictions are being studied in some countries, it would be difficult to impose a ban without solid scientific proof. However, regardless of an eventual ban, the debate about endocrine disruptors risks redistributing the cards.
It's clear that the wind is blowing in favour of physical filters. Regulation 2016/621 of 21 April 2016 modified its Annexe VI to include zinc oxide and at the same time, the Scientific Committee for the Security of Consumers (SCCS) gave a postive recommendation for the use of Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) in nano form.
But if physical filters are coming back to the forefront, they bring with them the difficulties associated with formulating sun screen products with a high SPF and all the more so in the absence of nano particles.
The formulation of a cosmetic product with a high mineral content is always a tall order. With PROTECT CONTROL, distributed in Europe by BRENNTAG and QUIMICA MASSO it's possible today to reduce the mineral content by a factor of 4 whilst maintaining the same level of protection.
And that's without taking into account its antioxydant power, an additional property which is particularly important when we consider sun exposure as the primary exogenous cause of free radical creation.
Now we are position to calmly contemplate market pressure and regulatory constraints.